Matsumoto Castle History: From Sengoku Fortress to National Treasure

Origins in the Sengoku Period

Matsumoto Castle’s history begins in the Sengoku (Warring States) period. In 1504, Shimadachi Sadanaga of the Ogasawara clan built a fort on the site, originally called Fukashi Castle. Later, in 1550, the castle came under the control of the Takeda clan and subsequently passed to Tokugawa Ieyasu.

Construction of the Castle We See Today

At that time, a marketplace already stood on the east side of the secondary citadel, while the land to the west was entirely swamp. Full-scale construction of the present castle began in the 1580s, which makes it older than every other castle in Japan except Inuyama Castle. Meanwhile, the Ishikawa family became daimyo of the region under Toyotomi Hideyoshi and drove the development of the castle town.

The main donjon was built between 1593 and 1594 by Lord Yasunaga, the second Ishikawa daimyo. Together with his father, Ishikawa Norimasa, he built much of the castle as it appears today, including:

• The main keep and the small northwest tower (Inui Kotenshu), both begun in 1590
• The Watari Tower (roofed passage) and the Tsukimi Yagura (moon-viewing tower)
• The residence, the Drum Gate and the Black Gate
• The moat, the innermost bailey, the second bailey and the third bailey

In addition, the two men laid out the castle town and its infrastructure. Most of the castle is believed to have been completed by 1593-94.

The Edo Period and “Crow Castle”

During the Edo period, the Tokugawa shogunate established the Matsumoto Domain, ruled by the Matsudaira, Mizuno and other daimyo. For the next 280 years, until the feudal system was abolished in the Meiji Restoration, 23 lords from six daimyo families governed the castle. Because its black walls and roofs resembled spreading wings, it also became known as Crow Castle (Karasu-jo, 烏城).

Saved from Demolition in the Meiji Era

In 1872, following the Meiji Restoration, the castle grounds were sold at auction, as happened with many former daimyo castles. However, when word spread that the keep would be demolished, Ichikawa Ryōzō, an influential local figure, led residents in a campaign to save it. As a result, the city government acquired the tower and preserved it for future generations.

Restoration and Preservation

Later, in the late Meiji period, the keep began to lean to one side. Old photographs clearly show the tilt, which was caused by neglect and a structural defect, although many locals believed it was the curse of Tada Kasuke. Consequently, the castle underwent the Great Meiji Renovation between 1903 and 1913.

Then, in 1952, the following were designated National Treasures:

• The main keep
• Inui Kotenshu (small northern tower)
• Watari Yagura (roofed passage)
• Tatsumi Tsuke Yagura (southern wing)
• Tsukimi Yagura (moon-viewing tower)

The Great Shōwa Renovation followed from 1950 to 1955. After that, the Kuromon-Ninomon (second gate of the Black Gate) and the side wall (sodebei) were reconstructed in 1990, and the square Drum Gate in 1999. Thanks to these ongoing civic efforts, Matsumoto Castle remains one of Japan’s best-preserved historic castles and a favourite with visitors from around the world.